Pesticides And Toxic Substances (H7506C)

United States Environmental Protection Agency

 

4th edition

22T-1002

November 1991

 

 

 

Contents

 

Knowing Your Options

 

Tips for Handling Pesticides

 

Determining Correct Dosage

 

Correct Storage and Disposal

 

How to Choose a Pest Control Company

 

How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides

 

"Someone's Been Poisoned, Help"

 

 

Knowing Your Options

 

 

 

THEY'RE THERE. Whether you see them or not, you know they're

there--in your home, your vegetable garden, your lawn, your fruit and

shade trees, your flowers, and on your pets. They are pests--insects,

weeds, fungi, rodents, and others.

 

American households and their surrounding grounds are frequent

hosts to common structural pests (termites, cockroaches, fleas,

rodents), as well as a wide array of pests that are usually associated

with agriculture. Because pests are all around--sometimes creating a

nuisance but sometimes causing severe financial loss--consumers have

turned increasingly to pesticides to control them. Just as "pests" can

be anything from cockroaches in your kitchen to algae in your swimming

pool, pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, fungicides,

rodenticides, disinfectants, and plant growth regulators--anything that

kills or otherwise controls a pest of any kind.

 

The first and most important step in pest control is to identify

the pest. Some pests, or signs of them, are unmistakable. Others are

not. For example, some plant "diseases" are really indications of

insufficient soil nutrients.

 

Three information sources are particularly helpful in identifying

pests and appropriate pest control methods: reference books (such as

insect field guides or gardening books), the County Extension Service,

and pesticide dealers.

 

The next step is to decide what level of treatment you want. Is

anyone in the family or neighborhood particularly sensitive to chemical

pesticides? Does your lawn really need to be totally weed-free? Do you

need every fruit, vegetable, or flower you grow, or could you replace

certain pest-prone species or varieties with hardier substitutes? Will

you accept some blemished produce? In other words, do you need to

eliminate all weeds and insects, or can you tolerate some pests?

 

Remember that total pest elimination is virtually impossible, and

trying to eradicate pests from your premises will lead you to more

extensive, repeated chemical treatments than are required for pest

control. Remember, too, that to manage any pest effectively, you must

use each method (or combination of methods) correctly. Finally, you must

also abide by all pertinent local, state, and federal regulations.

 

 

Federal Registration of Pesticides

 

 

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) "registers" (licenses)

thousands of pesticide products for use in and around homes. No

pesticide may legally be sold or used in the United States unless its

label bears an EPA registration number. The Federal Insecticide,

Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIRA), which governs the registration of

pesticides, prohibits the use of any pesticide product in a manner that

is inconsistent with the product labeling.

 

 

Prevention

 

 

There is another important question to ask in making pest control

decisions: is there something on your premises that needlessly invites

pest infestations? The answer to this question may lead you to take some

common-sense steps to modify pest habitat.

 

* Remove water sources. All pests, vertebrate or invertebrate, need

water for survival. Fix leaky plumbing and do not let water

accumulate anywhere in your home. This means no water in trays

under your houseplants overnight if you have a cockroach

infestation.

 

* Remove food sources (if the pest's food is anything other than the

plant or animal you are trying to protect). For example, this could

mean storing your food in sealed glass or plastic containers,

avoiding the habit of leaving your pet's food out for extended

periods of time, and placing your refuse in tightly covered,

heavy-gauge garbage cans.

 

* Remove or destroy pest shelter. Caulk cracks and crevices to

control cockroaches; remove piles of wood from under or around your

home in order to avoid attracting termites;

 

* Remove and destroy diseased plants, tree prunings, and fallen fruit

that might harbor pests.

 

* Remove breeding sites. The presence of pet manure attracts flies,

litter encourages rodents, and standing water provides a perfect

breeding place for mosquitoes.

 

* Remove sources of preventable stress to plants (flowers, trees,

vegetable plants, and turf). Plant at the optimum time of year. Use

mulch to reduce weed competition and maintain even soil temperature

and moisture. Provide adequate water.

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

* Use preventive cultural practices, such as careful selection of

disease-resistant seed or plant varieties, companion planting to

exploit the insect-repellent properties of certain plants,

strategic use of "trap" crops to lure pests away from crops you

wish to protect, crop rotation and diversification, and optimum use

of spacing. Make sure you have good drainage and soil aeration.

 

 

Non-chemical Controls

 

 

If you practice preventive techniques such as those mentioned

above, you will reduce your chances, or frequency, of pest infestation.

However, if you already have an infestation, are there any pest control

alternatives besides chemical pesticides?

 

The answer is an emphatic "yes." One or a combination of several

non-chemical treatment alternatives may be appropriate. Your best

strategy depends on the pest and the site where the pest occurs.

 

Non-chemical alternatives include:

 

* Biological treatments, including predators such as purple martins,

praying mantises, and lady bugs; parasites; and pathogens such as

bacteria, viruses (generally not available to homeowners), and

other microorganisms like Bacillus thuringiensis and milky spore

disease.

 

There is no way to be certain how long predators will stay in

target areas. Contact your County Extension Service for information

about how to protect desirable predators.

 

* Mechanical treatments, including cultivating to control weeds,

hand-picking weeds from turf and pests from plants, trapping to

control rodents and some insects, and screening living space to

limit mosquito and fly access.

 

Non-chemical pest control methods really work. They do have some

disadvantages: the results are not immediate, and it requires some

work to make a home or garden less attractive to pests. But the

advantages of non-chemical methods are many. Compared to chemical

pesticide treatments, such methods are generally effective for

longer periods of time. They do not create hardy,

pesticide-resistant pest populations. And they can be used without

safeguards, because they pose virtually no hazards to human health

or the environment.

 

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Chemical Controls

 

 

If you decide that chemical treatment can provide the best solution

to your pest problem, and you want to control the pests yourself rather

than turning the problem over to a professional pest control operator,

then you have an important decision to make: which product to choose.

Before making that decision, learn as much as you can about a product's

active ingredient--its biologically active agent. Is it "broad-spectrum"

in its mode of action (effective against a broad range of pests), or is

it "selective" (effective against only a few pest species)? How rapidly

does the active ingredient break down once it is introduced into the

environment? Is it suspected of causing chronic health effects? Is it

toxic to non-target wildlife and house pets? Is it known, or suspected,

to leach through soil into ground water?

 

Here again, your County Extension Service, reference books,

pesticide dealers, your state pesticide agency, or your regional EPA

office may be able to provide assistance. (Lists of State and EPA

pesticide contacts are provided at the end of this booklet.)

 

When you have narrowed your choices of active ingredients, you are

ready to select a pesticide product. Choose the least toxic pesticide

that can achieve the results you desire. Read the label. It lists active

ingredients, the target pests (for example, mites, flies, Japanese

beetle grubs, broad-leafed weeds, algae, etc.), and the sites where the

product may be used (for example, lawns, specific vegetable crops,

roses, swimming pools, etc.). Be sure the site of your pest problem is

included among the sites listed on the label.

 

Pesticide active ingredients are formulated in many ways. Choose

the formulation best suited to your site and the pest you are trying to

control. The most common types of home-use pesticide formulations

include:

 

* Solutions, which contain the active ingredient and one or more

additives, and readily mix with water.

 

* Aerosols, which contain one or more active ingredients and a

solvent. They are ready for immediate use as is.

 

* Dusts, which contain active ingredients plus a very fine dry inert

carrier such as clay, talc, or volcanic ash. Dusts are ready for

immediate use and are applied dry.

 

* Granulars, which are similar to dusts, but with larger and heavier

particles for broadcast applications.

 

* Baits, which are active ingredients mixed with food or other

substances to attract the pest.

 

* Wettable powders, which are dry, finely ground formulations that

generally are mixed with water for spray application. Some also may

be used as dusts.

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

Depending on the type of formulation you choose, you may need to

dilute or mix the product. Prepare only the amount that you need for

each application; don't prepare larger amounts to store for possible

future use. (See "Determining Correct Dosage.")

 

Once you have identified the pest, selected the right pesticide,

and determined proper dosage, you are ready to use the product.

Application technique and timing are every bit as important as the

material used, so read the label for directions. That advice--to read

the label--is repeated so often in this guide that it may become

tiresome. But in fact, the advice cannot be repeated often enough. Read

the label before you buy a product, and again before you mix it, before

you apply it, before you store it, and before you throw it away. The

directions on a label are there for a very good reason: to help you

achieve maximum benefits with minimum risk. But these benefits depend

upon proper use of the products.

 

Chemical pesticides also have their disadvantages. They must be

used very carefully to achieve results while protecting users and the

environment. The results are generally temporary, and repeated

treatments may be required.

 

Therefore, to achieve best results when you do use chemical

pesticides, use preventive and non-chemical treatments along with them.

This will reduce the need for repeated applications.

 

You should always evaluate your pesticide use, comparing

pre-treatment and post-treatment conditions. You should weigh the

benefits of short-term chemical pesticide control against the benefits

of long-term control using a variety of techniques. Knowledge of a range

of pest control techniques gives you the ability to pick and choose

among them. Pests, unfortunately, will always be around us, and, if you

know about all pest control options, you will know what to do the next

time THEY'RE THERE.

 

 

Tips for Handling Pesticides

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

Pesticides are not "safe." They are produced specifically because

they are toxic to something. By heeding all the following tips, you can

reduce your risks when you use pesticides.

 

* All pesticides legally marketed in the United States must bear an

EPA-approved label; check the label to make sure it bears an EPA

registration number.

 

* Before using a pesticide, read the entire label. Even if you have

used the pesticide before, read the label again--don't trust your

memory. Use of any pesticide in any way that is not consistent with

label directions and precautions is subject to civil and/or

criminal penalties.

 

* Do not use a "restricted use" pesticide unless you are a formally

trained, certified pesticide applicator. These products are too

dangerous to be used without special training.

 

* Follow use directions carefully. Use only the amount directed, at

the time and under the conditions specified, and for the purpose

listed. Don't think that twice the dosage will do twice the job. It

won't. What's worse, you may harm yourself, others, or whatever you

are trying to protect.

 

* Look for one of the following signal words on the front of the

label. It will tell you how hazardous a pesticide is if swallowed,

inhaled, or absorbed through skin.

 

"DANGER" means highly poisonous;

 

"WARNING" means moderately hazardous;

 

"CAUTION" means least hazardous.

 

* Wear the items of protective clothing the label requires: for

example, long sleeves and long pants, impervious gloves, rubber

(not canvas or leather) footwear, hat, and goggles. Personal

protective clothing usually is available at home building supply

stores.

 

* If you must mix or dilute the pesticide, do so outdoors or in a

well-ventilated area. Mix only the amount you need and use portions

listed on the label.

 

* Keep children and pets away from areas where you mix or apply

pesticides.

 

* If a spill occurs, clean it up promptly. Don't wash it away.

Instead, sprinkle with sawdust, vermiculite, or kitty litter; sweep

into a plastic garbage bag; and dispose with the rest of your

trash.

 

* Remove pets (including birds and fish) and toys from the area to be

treated. Remove food, dishes, pots, and pans before treating

kitchen cabinets, and don't let pesticides get on these surfaces.

Wait until shelves dry before refilling them.

 

* Allow adequate ventilation when applying pesticides indoors. Go

away from treated areas for at least the length of time prescribed

by the label. When spraying outdoors, close the windows of your

home.

 

* Most surface sprays should be applied only to limited areas; don't

treat entire floors, walls, or ceilings.

 

* Never place rodent or insect baits where small children or pets can

reach them.

 

* When applying spray or dust outdoors, cover fish ponds, and avoid

applying pesticides near wells. Always avoid over-application when

treating lawn, shrubs, or gardens. Runoff or seepage from excess

pesticide usage may contaminate water supplies. Excess spray may

leave harmful residues on home-grown produce.

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

* Keep herbicides away from non-target plants. Avoid applying any

pesticide to blooming plants, especially if you see honeybees or

other pollinating insects around them. Avoid birds' nests when

spraying trees.

 

* Never spray or dust outdoors on a windy day.

 

* Never smoke while applying pesticides. You could easily carry

traces of the pesticide from hand to mouth. Also, some products are

flammable.

 

* Never transfer pesticides to containers not intended for them, such

as empty soft drink bottles. Keep pesticides in containers that

clearly and prominently identify the contents. Properly refasten

all childproof caps.

 

* Shower and shampoo thoroughly after using a pesticide product. Wash

the clothing that you wore when applying the product separately

from the family laundry. To prevent tracking chemicals inside, also

rinse boots and shoes before entering your home.

 

* Before using a pesticide product, know what to do in case of

accidental poisoning.

 

* To remove residues, use a bucket to triple rinse tools or

equipment, including any containers or utensils used to mix the

chemicals. Then pour the rinse water into the pesticide container

and reuse the solution by applying it according to the pesticide

product label directions.

 

* Evaluate the results of your pesticide use.

 

 

Determining Correct Dosage

 

 

So much information is packed onto pesticide labels that there is

usually no room to include examples of each dilution applicable to the

multitude of home-use situations. As a result, label examples may

inadvertently encourage preparation of more pesticide than is needed.

The excess may contribute to overuse, safety problems related to storage

and disposal, or simply wasted costs of unused pesticide.

 

Determining the correct dosage for different types of pesticides

requires some simple calculations. The following information can help

you to prepare the minimum quantity of pesticide needed for your

immediate use situation.

 

For example, the product label says, "For the control of aphids on

tomatoes, mix 8 fluid ounces of pesticide into 1 gallon water and spray

until foliage is wet." Your experience has been that your six tomato

plants require only one quart of pesticide to wet all the foliage.

Therefore, only 2 fluid ounces of the pesticide should be mixed into 1

quart of water. Why? Because a quart is one-fourth of a gallon, and 2

fluid ounces mixed into 1 quart make the same strength spray recommended

by the label, but in a quantity that can be used up all at once.

 

Consumers can solve problems similar to this one with careful

arithmetic, good measurements, and intelligent use of the information

provided here.

 

 

How to Measure

 

 

If you need to determine the size of a square or rectangular area,

such as a lawn for herbicide application, measure and multiply the

length and width. For example, an area 10 feet long by 8 feet wide

contains 80 square feet. Common area measurements may involve square

yards (1 square yard = 9 square feet) or square feet (1 square foot =

144 square inches).

 

If you need to determine the volume of a space such as a room,

measure and multiply the room's length, width, and height. For example,

a space 10 feet long, 8 feet wide, and 8 feet high contains a volume of

640 cubic feet. You would use this procedure, for instance, for an

aerosol release to control cockroaches.

 

Most residential-use pesticides are measured in terms of volume.

Some common equivalents are:

 

1 gallon (gal.) = 128 fluid ounces (ft. oz.)

= 4 quarts (qt.)

= 8 pints (pt.)

= 16 cups

 

1 qt. = 32 ft. oz.

= 2 pt.

= 4 cups

 

1 pt. = 16 ft. oz.

= 2 cups

 

1 cup = 8 ft. oz.

 

1 tablespoon = 1/2 fl. oz.

= 3 teaspoons

 

1 teaspoon = 1/8 ft. oz.

 

 

In measuring teaspoons or tablespoons of pesticide, use only level

spoonfuls, and never use the same measuring devices for food

preparation.

 

The following table provides examples to help you convert label

information to your specific use situations. "Amount" can be any measure

of pesticide quantity. However, the same unit of measure must be used on

both sides of the chart. For example, 8 fluid ounces per gallon of water

is equivalent to 2 fluid ounces per quart of water.

 

Not all dosage rates are included in the examples given here. For

rates not included, remember that, for pesticides not diluted with

water, proportionally change both the quantity of pesticide and the

area, volume, or number of items treated. For example, one-half pound

per 1,000 square feet is equivalent to one-quarter pound per 500 square

feet. For a pesticide that is diluted with water, proportionally change

the quantity of pesticide, the quantity of water, and the area, volume,

or number of items treated. For example, one-half pound of pesticide in

1 gallon of water applied to 1,000 square feet is equivalent to 1 pound

of pesticide in 2 gallons of water applied to 2,000 square feet.

 

There is a point at which measurements needed for smaller

quantities of pesticides are too minute to be accurately measured with

typical domestic measuring devices. In such cases, the user can either

mix the larger volume, realizing that there will be leftover material;

obtain a more accurate measuring device, such as a graduated cylinder or

a scale which measures small weights; or search for an alternative

pesticide or less concentrated formulation of the same pesticide.

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

Correct Storage and Disposal

 

 

The following tips on home storage and disposal can help you handle

pesticides correctly.

 

 

Storage

 

 

* Buy only enough product to carry you through the use season, to

reduce storage problems.

 

* Store pesticides away from children and pets. A locked cabinet in a

well-ventilated utility area or garden shed is best.

 

* Store flammable liquids outside living quarters and away from an

ignition source.

 

* Never put pesticides in cabinets with, or near, food, medical

supplies, or cleaning materials. Always store pesticides in their

original containers, complete with labels that list ingredients,

directions for use, and antidotes in case of accidental poisoning.

Never transfer pesticides to soft drink bottles or other containers

that children may associate with something to eat or drink. Always

properly refasten child-proof closures or lids.

 

* Avoid storing pesticides in places where flooding is possible, or

in open places where they might spill or leak into the environment.

If you have any doubt about the content of a container, dispose of

it with your trash.

 

 

Disposal

 

 

* The best way to dispose of a small, excess amount of pesticide is

to use it--apply it--according to directions on the product label.

If you cannot use it, ask your neighbor whether he/she can use it.

If all the pesticide cannot be used, first check with your local

health department or solid waste management agency to determine

whether your community has a household hazardous waste collection

program or any other program for handling disposal of pesticides.

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

* If no community programs exist, follow label directions regarding

container disposal. To dispose of less than a full container of a

liquid pesticide, leave it in the original container, with the cap

securely in place to prevent spills or leaks. Wrap the container in

several layers of newspapers and tie securely. Then place the

package in a covered trash can for routine collection with

municipal refuse. If you do not have a regular trash collection

service, take the package to a permitted landfill (unless your

municipality has other requirements).

 

Note: No more than one gallon of liquid pesticide should be

disposed of in this manner.

 

* Wrap individual packages of dry pesticide formulations in several

layers of newspaper, or place the package in a tight carton or bag,

and tape or tie it closed. As with liquid formulations, place the

package in a covered trash can for routine collection.

 

Note: No more than 5 pounds of pesticide at a time should be

disposed of in this manner.

 

* Do not pour leftover pesticides down the sink or into the toilet.

Chemicals in pesticides could interfere with the operation of

wastewater treatment systems or could pollute waterways, because

many municipal systems cannot remove all pesticide residues.

 

* An empty pesticide container can be as hazardous as a full one

because of residues remaining inside. Never reuse such a container.

When empty, a pesticide container should be carefully rinsed and

thoroughly drained. Liquids used to rinse the container should be

added to the sprayer or to the container previously used to mix the

pesticide and used according to label directions.

 

Empty product containers made of plastic or metal should be

punctured to prevent reuse. (Do not puncture or burn a pressurized

product container--it could explode.) Glass containers should be

rinsed and drained, as described above, and the cap or closure

replaced securely. After rinsing, an empty mixing container or

sprayer may also be wrapped and placed in the trash.

 

* If you have any doubts about proper pesticide disposal, contact

your state or local health department, your solid waste management

agency, or the regional EPA office.

 

 

How to Choose a Pest Control Company

 

 

Termites are chomping away at your house. Roaches are taking over

your kitchen. Mouse droppings dot your dresser drawer. You've got a pest

control problem, and you've decided that it's too serious for you to

solve on your own. You've decided you need a professional exterminator.

 

If you find yourself in a situation like this, what can you do to

be sure that the pest control company you hire will do a good job? Here

are some questions you can ask:

 

1. Does the company have a good track record?

 

Don't rely on the company salesman to answer this question;

research the answer yourself. Ask around among neighbors and

friends; have any of them dealt with the company before? Were they

satisfied with the service they received? Call the Better Business

Bureau or local consumer office; have they received any complaints

about the company?

 

2. Does the company have insurance? What kind of insurance? Can the

salesman show some documentation to prove that the company is insured?

 

Contractor's general liability insurance, including insurance for

sudden and accidental pollution, gives you as a homeowner a certain

degree of protection should an accident occur while pesticides are

being applied in your home. Contractor's workmen's compensation

insurance can also help protect you should an employee of the

contractor be injured while working in your home.

 

In most states, pest control companies are not required to buy

insurance, but you should think twice before dealing with a company

that is uninsured.

 

3. Is the company licensed?

 

Regulatory agencies in some states issue state pest control

licenses. Although the qualifications for a license vary from state

to state, at a minimum the license requires that each company have

a certified pesticide applicator present in the office on a daily

basis to supervise the work of exterminators using restricted-use

pesticides. (Certified applicators are formally trained and

"certified" as qualified to use or supervise the use of pesticides

that are classified for restricted use.) If restricted-use

pesticides are to be applied on your premises, make sure the pest

control operator's license is current. Also ask if the company's

employees are bonded.

 

You may want to contact your state lead pesticide agency to ask

about its pesticide certification and training programs and to

inquire if periodic recertification is required for pest control

operators.

 

In addition to the licenses required in some states, some cities

also issue pest control licenses. Again, qualifications vary, but

possession of a city license--where they are available--is one more

assurance that the company you are dealing with is reputable and

responsible.

 

4. Is the company affiliated with a professional pest control

association?

 

Professional associations--whether national, state, or local--keep

members informed of new developments in pest control methods,

safety, training, research, and regulation. They also have codes of

ethics that members agree to abide by. The fact that a company,

small or large, chooses to affiliate itself with a professional

association signals its concern for the quality of its work.

 

5. Does the company stand behind its work? What assurances does the

company make?

 

You should think twice about dealing with a company unwilling to

stand behind its work. Be sure to find out what you must do to keep

your part of the bargain. For example, in the case of termite

control treatments, a guarantee may be invalidated if structural

alterations are made without prior notice to the pest control

company.

 

6. Is the company willing, and able, to discuss the treatment proposed

for your home?

 

Selecting a pest control service is just as important as selecting

other professional services. Look for the same high degree of

competence you would expect from a doctor or lawyer. The company

should inspect your premises and outline a recommended control

program, including what pests are to be controlled; the extent of

the infestation; what pesticide formulation will be used in your

home and why; what techniques will be used in application; what

alternatives to the formulation and techniques could be used

instead; what special instructions you should follow to reduce your

exposure to the pesticide (such as vacating the house, emptying the

cupboards, removing pets, etc.); and what you can do to minimize

your pest problems in the future.

 

Contracts should be jointly developed. Any safety concerns should

be noted and reflected in the choice of pesticides to be used.

These concerns could include allergies, age of occupants (infants

or elderly), or pets. You may want to get two to three, bids from

different companies--by value, not price. What appears to be a

bargain may merit a second look.

 

Even after you have hired a company, you should continue your

vigilance. Evaluate results. If you have reason to believe that

something has gone wrong with the pesticide application, contact

the company and/or your state lead pesticide agency. Don't let your

guard down, and don't stop asking questions.

 

 

How to Reduce Your Exposure to Pesticides

 

 

Because chemical pesticides are so widely used in our society, and

because of the properties of many of the chemicals, low levels of

pesticide residues are found throughout the environment. Pesticides

reach us in a variety of ways--through food, water, and air.

 

In regulating pesticides, EPA strives to ensure that lawful use of

these products will not result in harmful exposures. Proper use of

registered products should yield residue levels that are well within

established safety standards. Therefore, the average American's exposure

to low-level residues, though fairly constant, should not cause alarm.

 

Still, many people want to learn what choices they can make to

further reduce their exposure to any potential risks associated with

pesticides. By limiting your exposure to these products, you can keep

your risks to a minimum.

 

Below you will find descriptions of the main pathways of human

exposure to pesticides, as well as suggestions on ways to reduce overall

exposure and attendant risks. If, however, you suspect that you suffer

from serious chemical sensitivities, consult an expert to develop a more

personally tailored approach to managing this problem.

 

 

Exposure Through Food

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

Commercial Food

 

 

Throughout life--beginning even before birth--we are all exposed to

pesticides. A major source of exposure is through our diets. We

constantly consume small amounts of pesticides. Fruits and vegetables,

as well as meat, poultry, eggs, and milk, are all likely to contain

measurable pesticide residues.

 

EPA sets standards, called tolerances, to limit the amount of

pesticide residues that legally may remain in or on food or animal feed

marketed in U.S. commerce. Both domestic and imported foods are

monitored by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and the U.S.

Department of Agriculture (USDA) to ensure compliance with these

tolerances. Further, since pesticide residues generally tend to degrade

over time and through processing, residue concentrations in or on most

foods are well below legal tolerance levels by the time the foods are

purchased.

 

Although EPA does limit dietary pesticide exposure through

tolerances, you may wish to take extra precautions. You can take several

steps to reduce your exposure to residues in purchased food.

 

* Rinse fruit and vegetables thoroughly with water; scrub them with a

brush and peel them, if possible. Although this surface cleaning

will not remove "systemic" pesticide residues taken up into the

growing fruit or vegetable, it will remove most of the existing

surface residues, not to mention any dirt.

 

* Cook or bake foods to reduce residues of some (but not all)

pesticides.

 

* Trim the fat from meat and poultry. Discard the fats and oils in

broths and pan drippings, since residues of some pesticides

concentrate in fat.

 

 

Home-grown Food

 

 

Growing some of your own food can be both a pleasurable activity

and a way to reduce your exposure to pesticide residues in food. But,

even here, there are some things you may want to do to assure that

exposure is limited.

 

* Before converting land in an urban or suburban area to gardening,

find out how the land was used previously. Choose a site that had

limited (or no) chemical applications and where drift or runoff

from your neighbor's activities will not result in unintended

pesticide residues on your produce. Choose a garden site

strategically to avoid these potential routes of entry, if

possible.

 

If you are taking over an existing garden plot, be aware that the

soil may contain pesticide residues from previous gardening

activities. These residues may remain in the soil for several

years, depending on the persistence of the pesticides that were

used. Rather than waiting for the residues to decline naturally

over time, you may speed the process.

 

* Plant an interim, non-food, crop like annual rye grass, clover, or

alfalfa. Such crops, with their dense, fibrous root systems, will

take up some of the lingering pesticide residues. Then discard the

crops--don't work them back into the soil--and continue to

alternate food crops with cover crops in the off season.

 

* During sunny periods, turn over the soil as often as every two to

three days for a week or two. The sunlight will help to break down,

or photodegrade, some of the pesticide residues.

 

Once you do begin gardening, develop strategies that will reduce

your need for pesticides while maintaining good crop yields.

 

* Concentrate on building your garden's soil, since healthy soil

grows healthy plants. Feed the soil with compost, manure, etc., to

increase its capacity to support strong crops.

 

* Select seeds and seedlings from hardy, disease-resistant varieties.

The resulting plants are less likely to need pesticides in order to

flourish.

 

* Avoid monoculture gardening techniques. Instead, alternate rows of

different kinds of plants to prevent significant pest problems from

developing.

 

* Don't plant the same crop in the same spot year after year if you

want to reduce plant susceptibility to over-wintered pests.

 

* Become familiar with integrated pest management (IPM) techniques,

so that you can manage any pest outbreaks that do occur without

relying solely on pesticides.

 

* Mulch your garden with leaves, hay, grass clippings,

shredded/chipped bark, or seaweed. Avoid using newspapers to keep

down weeds, and sewage sludge to fertilize plants. Newsprint may

contain heavy metals; sludge may contain heavy metals and

pesticides, both of which can leach into your soil.

 

 

Food from the Wild

 

 

While it might seem that hunting your own game, catching your own

fish, or gathering wild plant foods would reduce your overall exposure

to pesticides, this isn't necessarily so. Wild foods hunted, caught, or

gathered in areas where pesticides are frequently used outdoors may

contain pesticide residues. Migratory species also may contain pesticide

residues if these chemicals are used anywhere in their flyways.

 

Tolerances generally are not established or enforced for pesticides

found in wild game, fowl, fish, or plants. Thus, if you consume food

from the wild, you may want to take the following steps to reduce your

exposure to pesticide residues.

 

* Because wild game is very lean, there is less fat in which

pesticides can accumulate. However, avoid hunting in areas where

pesticide usage is very high.

 

* Avoid fishing in water bodies where water contamination is known to

have occurred. Pay attention to posted signs warning of

contamination.

 

* You may want to consult with fish and game officials where you plan

to hunt or fish to determine whether there are any pesticide

problems associated with that area.

 

* When picking wild plant foods, avoid gathering right next to a

road, utility right-of-way, or hedgerow between farm fields which

probably have been treated (directly or indirectly) with

pesticides. Instead, seek out fields that have not been used to

produce crops, deep woods, or other areas where pesticide use is

unlikely.

 

* When preparing wild foods, trim fat from meat, and discard skin of

fish to remove as many fat-soluble pesticide residues as possible.

For wild plant foods, follow the tips provided for commercial food.

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

Exposure Through Water

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

Whether it comes from surface or ground water sources, the water

flowing from your tap may contain low levels of pesticides.

 

When pesticides are applied to land, a certain amount may run off

the land into streams and rivers. This runoff, coupled with industrial

discharges, can result in low-level contamination of surface water. In

certain hydrogeologic settings--for example, sandy soil over a ground

water source that is near the surface--pesticides can leach down through

the soil to the ground water.

 

EPA's Water Program sets standards and provides advisory levels for

pesticides and other chemicals that may be found in drinking water.

Public municipal water systems test their water periodically and provide

treatment or alternate supply sources if residue problems arise. Private

wells generally are not tested unless the well owner requests such

analysis.

 

If you get your drinking water from a private well, you can reduce

the chance of contaminating your water supply by following these

guidelines:

 

* Be cautious about using pesticides and other chemicals on your

property, especially if the well is shallow or is not tightly

constructed. Check with your EPA regional office or County

Extension Service before using a pesticide outdoors, to determine

whether it is known or suspected to leach to ground water. Never

use or mix a pesticide near your well head.

 

* To avoid pesticide contamination problems, be sure your well

extends downward to aquifers that are below, and isolated from,

surface aquifers, and be sure the well shaft is tightly sealed. If

you have questions about pesticide or other chemical residues in

your well water, contact your state or county health department.

 

* If your well water is analyzed and found to contain pesticide

residue levels above established or recommended health standards,

you may wish to use an alternate water source such as bottled water

for drinking and cooking. The best choice is distilled spring water

in glass bottles. Ask your local bottler for the results of a

recent pesticide analysis.

 

 

Exposure Through Air

 

 

Outdoors, air currents may carry pesticides that were applied on

adjacent property or miles away. But there are steps you can take to

reduce your exposure to airborne pesticide residue, or drift, outdoors.

To reduce your exposure to airborne pesticides:

 

* Avoid applying pesticides in windy weather (when winds exceed 10

miles per hour).

 

* Use coarse droplet nozzles to reduce misting.

 

* Apply the spray as close to the target as possible.

 

* Keep the wind to your side so that sprays and dusts do not blow

into your face.

 

* If someone else is applying pesticides outdoors near your home,

stay indoors with your pets and children, keeping doors and windows

closed. If it is very windy during the pesticide application, stay

inside for an hour or two.

 

* If pesticides are applied frequently near your home (if you live

next to fields receiving regular pesticide treatment), consider

planting a buffer zone of thick-branched trees and shrubs upwind to

help serve as a buffer zone and windbreak.

 

* Many local governments require public notification in advance of

area-wide or broad-scale pesticide spray activities and

programs--through announcements in newspapers, letters to area

residents, or posting of signs in areas to be treated. Some

communities have also enacted "right to know" ordinances which

require public notification, usually through posting, of lawn

treatments and other small-scale outdoor pesticide uses. If your

local government does not require notifications, either for large-

or small-scale applications, you may want to work with local

officials to develop such requirements.

 

Indoors, the air you breathe may bear pesticide residues long after

a pesticide has been applied to objects in your home or office, or

to indoor surfaces and crawl spaces. Pesticides dissipate more

slowly indoors than outdoors. In addition, energy efficiency

features built into many homes reduce air exchange, aggravating the

problem. To limit your exposure to indoor pesticide residues:

 

* Use pesticides indoors only when absolutely necessary, and then use

only limited amounts. Provide adequate ventilation during and after

application. If you hire a pest control company, oversee its

activities carefully.

 

* If pesticides are used inside your home, air out the house often,

since outdoor air generally is fresher and purer than indoor air.

Open doors and windows, and run overhead or whole-house fans to

exchange indoor air for outside air rapidly and completely.

 

* If pesticides have been used extensively and an indoor air

contamination problem has developed, clean--scrub--all surfaces

where pesticides may have settled, including cracks and crevices.

Consult a knowledgeable professional for advice on appropriate

cleaning materials if soap and water are insufficient.

 

 

Exposure Through Home Usage

 

 

Over a lifetime, diet is the most significant source of pesticide

exposure for the general public. However, on a short-term basis, the

most significant exposure source is personal pesticide use.

 

An array of pesticide products, ranging widely in toxicity and

potential effects, is available "off the shelf" to the private user. No

special training is required to purchase or use these products, and no

one is looking over the users' shoulder, monitoring their vigilance in

reading and following label instructions. Yet many of these products are

hazardous, especially if they are stored, handled, or applied

improperly.

 

To minimize the hazards and maximize the benefits that pesticides

bring, exercise caution and respect when using any pesticide product.

 

* Consider pesticide labeling to be what it is intended to be: your

best guide to using pesticides safely and effectively.

 

* Pretend that the pesticide product you are using is more toxic than

you think it is. Take special precautions to ensure an extra margin

of protection for yourself, your family, and pets.

 

* Don't use more pesticide than the label says. You may not achieve a

higher degree of pest control, and you will certainly experience a

higher degree of risk.

 

* If you hire a pest control firm to do the job, ask the company to

use the least toxic or any chemical-free pest control means

available that will do the job. For example, some home pest control

companies offer an electro-gun technique to control termite and

similar infestations by penetrating infested areas and "frying" the

problem pests without using any chemicals.

 

* And remember: sometimes a non-pesticidal approach is as convenient

and effective as its chemical alternatives. Consider using such

non-pesticidal approaches whenever possible.

 

 

"Someone's Been Poisoned. Help!"

 

 

What To Do in a Pesticide Emergency

 

 

The potential for a pesticide to cause injury depends upon several

factors:

 

* Toxicity of the active ingredient. Toxicity is a measure of the

inherent ability of a chemical to produce injury. Some pesticides,

such as pyrethrins, have low human toxicity while others, such as

sodium fluoroacetate, are extremely toxic.

 

* Dose. The greater the dose of a specific pesticide, i.e. the amount

absorbed, the greater the risk of injury. Dose is dependent upon

the absolute amount of the pesticide absorbed relative to the

weight of the person. Therefore, small amounts of a pesticide might

produce illness in a small child while the same dose of the same

pesticide in an adult might be relatively harmless.

 

* Route of absorption. Swallowing a pesticide usually creates the

most serious problem. In practice, however, the most common route

of absorption of pesticides is through the skin and the most toxic

pesticides have resulted in death through this route of exposure.

 

* Duration of exposure. The longer a person is exposed to pesticides,

the higher the level in the body. There is a point at which an

equilibrium will develop between the intake and the output. Then,

the level will no longer continue to increase. However, this point

may be either above or below the known toxic level.

 

* Physical and chemical properties. The distribution and the rates of

breakdown of pesticides in the environment significantly alter the

likelihood that injury might occur.

 

* Population at risk. Persons who run the greatest danger of

poisoning are those whose exposure is highest, such as workers who

mix, load, or apply pesticides. However, the general public also

faces the possibility of exposure.

 

 

Recognizing Pesticide Poisoning

 

 

Like other chemicals, pesticides may produce injury externally or

internally.

 

External irritants may cause contact-associated skin disease

primarily of an irritant nature--producing redness, itching, or

pimples--or an allergic skin reaction, producing redness, swelling, or

blistering. The mucous membranes of the eyes, nose, mouth, and throat

are also quite sensitive to chemicals. Stinging and swelling can occur.

 

Internal injuries from any chemical may occur depending upon where

a chemical is transported in the body. Thus, symptoms are dependent upon

the organ involved. Shortness of breath, clear saliva, or rapid

breathing may occur as the result of lung injury. Nausea, vomiting,

abdominal cramps, or diarrhea may result from direct injury to the

gastrointestinal tract. Excessive fatigue, sleepiness, headache, muscle

twitching, and loss of sensation may result from injury to the nervous

system. In general, different classes of pesticides produce different

sets of symptoms.

 

For example, organophosphate pesticides may produce symptoms of

pesticide poisoning affecting several different organs, and may progress

rapidly from very mild to severe. Symptoms may progress in a matter of

minutes from slight difficulty with vision to paralysis of the diaphragm

muscle, causing inability to breathe.

 

Therefore, if someone develops symptoms after working with

pesticides, seek medical help promptly to determine if the symptoms are

pesticide-related. In certain cases, blood or urine can be collected for

analysis, or other specific exposure tests can be made. It is better to

be too cautious than too late.

 

It is always important to avoid problems by minimizing your

exposure when mixing and applying pesticides by wearing gloves and other

protective clothing.

 

The appropriate first aid treatment depends upon which pesticide

was used. Here are some tips for first aid that may precede, but should

not substitute for, medical treatment:

 

* Poison on skin. Drench skin with water and remove contaminated

clothing. Wash skin and hair thoroughly with soap and water. Dry

victim and wrap in blanket. Later, discard contaminated clothing or

thoroughly wash it separately from other laundry.

 

* Chemical burn on skin. Drench skin with water and remove

contaminated clothing. Cover burned area immediately with loose,

clean, soft cloth. Do not apply ointments, greases, powders, or

other drugs. Later, discard or thoroughly wash contaminated

clothing separately from other laundry.

 

* Poison in eye. Eye membranes absorb pesticides faster than any

other external part of the body; eye damage can occur in a few

minutes with some types of pesticides. Hold eyelid open and wash

eye quickly and gently with clean running water from the tap or a

hose for 15 minutes or more. Do not use eye drops or chemicals or

drugs in the wash water.

 

* Inhaled poison. Carry or drag victim to fresh air immediately. (If

proper protection is unavailable to you, call for emergency

equipment from the Fire Department.) Loosen victim's tight

clothing. If the victim's skin is blue or the victim has stopped

breathing, give artificial respiration and call rescue service for

help. Open doors and windows so no one else will be poisoned by

fumes.

 

* Swallowed poison. A conscious victim should rinse his mouth with

plenty of water and then drink up to one quart of milk or water to

dilute the pesticide. Induce vomiting only if instructions to do so

are on the label. If there is no label available to guide you, do

not induce vomiting. Never induce vomiting if the victim is

unconscious or is having convulsions.

 

In dealing with any poisoning, act fast; speed is crucial.

 

 

First Aid for Pesticide Poisoning

 

 

First aid is the first step in treating a pesticide poisoning.

Study the "Statement of Treatment" on the product label before you use a

pesticide. When you realize a pesticide poisoning is occurring, be sure

the victim is not being further exposed to the poison before calling for

emergency help. An unconscious victim will have to be dragged into fresh

air. Caution: do not become poisoned yourself while trying to help. You

may have to put on breathing equipment or protective clothing to avoid

becoming the second victim.

 

After giving initial first aid, get medical help immediately. This

advice cannot be repeated too often. Bring the product container with

its label to the doctor's office or emergency room where the victim will

be treated; keep the container out of the passenger space of your

vehicle. The doctor needs to know what chemical is in the pesticide

before prescribing treatment (information that is also on the label).

Sometimes the label even includes a telephone number to call for

additional treatment information.

 

A good resource in a pesticide emergency is NPTN, the National

Pesticide Telecommunications Network, a toll-free telephone service.

Operators are on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, to provide

information on pesticides and on recognizing and responding to pesticide

poisonings. If necessary they can transfer inquiries directly to

affiliated poison control centers.

 

National Pesticide Telecommunications Network

Call Toll-Free 1-800-858-7378

 

NPTN operators answer questions about animal as well as human

poisonings. To keep your pets from being poisoned, follow label

directions on flea and tick products carefully, and keep pets off lawns

that have been newly treated with weed killers and insecticides.

 

EPA is interested in receiving information on any adverse effects

associated with pesticide exposure. If you have such information,

contact Frank Davido, Pesticide Incident Response Officer, Field

Operations Division (H-7506C), Office of Pesticide Programs, EPA, 401 M

Street, SW., Washington, D C 20460. You should provide as complete

information as possible, including any official investigation report of

the incident and medical records concerning adverse health effects.

Medical records will be held in confidence.

 

 

EPA Regional Offices and States Covered

 

 

EPA Region 1

JFK Federal Building

Boston, MA 02203

(617) 565-3424

 

Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, Rhode Island,

Vermont

 

 

EPA Region 2

26 Federal Plaza

New York, NY 10278

(212) 264-2515

 

New Jersey, New York, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands

 

 

EPA Region 3

841 Chestnut Street

Philadelphia, PA 19107

(215) 597-9370

 

Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia,

District of Columbia

 

 

EPA Region 4

345 Courtland Street, N.E.

Atlanta, GA 30365

(404) 347-3004

 

Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Mississippi, North

Carolina, South Carolina, Tennessee

 

 

EPA Region 5

230 South Dearborn Street

Chicago, IL 60604

(312) 353-2072

 

Illinois, Indiana, Michigan, Minnesota, Ohio, Wisconsin

 

 

EPA Region 6

1445 Ross Avenue

Dallas, TX 75202

(214) 655-2200

 

Arkansas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma, Texas

 

 

EPA Region 7

726 Minnesota Avenue

Kansas City, KS 66101

(913) 551-7003

 

Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska

 

 

EPA Region 8

One Denver Place

999 18th Street, Suite 1300

Denver, CO 80202-2413

(303) 293-1692

 

Colorado, Montana, North Dakota, South Dakota, Utah, Wyoming

 

 

EPA Region 9

75 Hawthorne Street

San Francisco, CA 94105

FTS 8-848-1305

DDD (415) 744-1305

 

Arizona, California, Hawaii, Nevada, American Samoa, Guam,

Trust Territories of the Pacific

 

 

EPA Region 10

1200 Sixth Avenue

Seattle, WA 98101

FTS 8-399-1107

DDD (206) 553-1107

 

Alaska, Idaho, Oregon, Washington

 

 

EPA Headquarters

401 M Street S.W.

Washington, D.C. 20460

(202) 382-4454

 

United States Environmental Protection Agency

Regional Organization

 

[Graphic Omitted]

 

State Pesticide Agencies

 

 

Region 1

Connecticut

Director

Dept. of Environmental Protection

Bureau of Waste Management, Pesticide Division

State Office Building

165 Capitol Avenue

Hartford, CT 06106

(203) 566-5148

 

Maine

Director

Board of Pesticide Control

Dept. of Agriculture

State House -- Station 28

Augusta, ME 04333

(207) 289-2731

 

Massachusetts

Chief

Pesticides Bureau

Dept. of Food and Agriculture

100 Cambridge Street, 21st Floor

Boston, MA 02202

(617) 727-3020

 

New Hampshire

Director

Division of Pesticides Control

Dept. of Agriculture

Caller Box 2042

Concord, NH 03302-2042

(603) 271-3550

 

Rhode Island

Chief

Division of Agriculture and Marketing

Dept. of Environmental Management

22 Hayes Street

Providence, RI 02908

(401) 277-2781

 

Vermont

Director

Plant Industry Laboratory of Standards Division

Dept. of Agriculture

116 State St., State Office Bldg

Montpelier, VT 05602

(802) 828-2431

 

 

Region 2

 

 

New Jersey

Assistant Director,

Pesticide Control Program

NJ Dept. of Environmental Protection

380 Scotch Road CN 411

Trenton, NJ 08625

(609) 530-4123

 

New York

Director

Bureau of Pesticides

Dept. of Environmental Conservation

Rm. 404, 50 Wolf Rd.

Albany NY 12233-7254

(518) 457-7482

 

Puerto Rico

Director

Analysis & Registration of Agricultural Materials

Division of Laboratory

Puerto Rico Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 10163

Santurce, PR 00908

(809) 796-1715

 

Virgin Islands

Director,

Pesticide Programs

Division of Natural Resources Management

Department of Conservation and Cultural Affairs

P.O. Box 4340

St. Thomas, VI 00801

(809) 773-0565

 

 

Region 3

 

 

Delaware

Delaware Dept. of Agriculture

2320 S. DuPont Highway

Dover, DE 19901

(302) 739-4811

 

District of Columbia

Pesticide and Hazardous Waste Management Branch,

Environmental Control Division

Room 203

2100 Martin Luther King Avenue S.E.

Washington, D.C. 20020

(202) 404-1167

 

Maryland

Chief

Pesticide Regulation Section

Maryland Dept. of Agriculture

50 Harry S. Truman Parkway

Annapolis, MD 21401

(301) 841-5710

 

Pennsylvania

Chief

Agronomic Services

Bureau of Plant Industry

PA Dept. of Agriculture

2301 N. Cameron Street

Harrisburg, PA 17110-9408

(717) 787-4843

 

Virginia

Supervisor

Office of Pesticide Management

VA Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Service

P.O. Box 1163

Richmond, VA 23209

(804) 371-6558

 

West Virginia

Plant Pest Control Division

W VA Dept. of Agriculture

State Capitol Building

Charleston, WV 25305

(304) 348-2212

 

 

Region 4

 

 

Alabama

Director

Agricultural Chemistry/Plant Industry Division

Alabama Dept. of Agriculture and Industries

P.O. Box 3336

Montgomery, AL 36109-0336

(205) 242-2631

 

Florida

Administrator

Pesticide Registration Section

Bureau of Pesticides

Division of Inspection

Dept. of Agriculture and Consumer Services

3125 Conner Boulevard

Tallahassee, FL 32399-1650

(904) 487-0532

 

Georgia

Agricultural Manager

Entomology and Pesticides Division

Dept. of Agriculture

19 Martin Luther King Jr. Drive, S.W.

Atlanta, GA 30334

(404) 656-4958

 

Kentucky

Director

Division of Pesticides

Kentucky Dept. of Agriculture

500 Metro Street, 7th Floor

Frankfort, KY 40601

(502) 564-7274

 

Mississippi

Division of Plant Industry

Dept. of Agriculture & Commerce

P.O. Box 5207

Mississippi State, MS 39762

(601) 325-3390

 

North Carolina

Administrator

Pesticides

Food & Drug Pesticide Section

Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 27647

Raleigh NC 27611-0647

(919) 733-3556

 

South Carolina

Head

Pesticide

Dept. of Fertilizer/Pest Control

256 Poole Agriculture Center

Clemson University

Clemson, SC 29634-0394

(803) 656-3171

 

Tennessee

Director

Plant Industries Division

Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 40627, Melrose Station

Nashville, TN 37204

(615) 360-0130

 

 

Region 5

 

 

Illinois

Chief

Bureau of Plant and Apiary Protection

Dept. of Agriculture

State Fair Ground

P.O. Box 19281

Springfield, IL 62794-9281

(217) 785-2427

 

Office of Health Regulation

Dept. of Public Health

535 West Jefferson

Springfield, IL 62761

(217) 782-4674

 

Indiana

Administrator

Pesticide

Office of the State Chemist

Dept. of Biochemistry

Purdue University

West Lafayette, IN 47907

(317) 494-1492

 

Michigan

Pesticide and Plant Pest Management Division

Dept. of Agriculture

Ottawa Building

N. Tower, 4th Floor

611 W. Ottawa St.

P.O. Box 30017

Lansing, MI 48909

(517) 373-1087

 

Minnesota

Director

Division of Agronomy Services

Dept. of Agriculture

90 West Plato Blvd.

St. Paul, MN 55107

(612) 296-1161

 

Ohio

Specialist in Charge of Pesticide Regulation

Division of Plant Industry

Dept. of Agriculture

8995 East Main St.

Reynoldsburg, OH 43068

(614) 866-6361

 

Wisconsin

Director

Groundwater and Regulatory Service Section

Dept. of Agriculture

Trade and Consumer Protection

801 West Badger Rd.

P.O. Box 8911

Madison, WI 53708

(608) 266-9459

 

 

Region 6

 

 

Arkansas

Director

Division of Feed, Fertilizer & Pesticides

Arkansas State Plant Board

#1 Natural Resources Dr.

Little Rock, AR 72203

(501) 225-1598

 

Louisiana

Office of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

Louisiana Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 3596

Baton Rouge, LA 70821-3596

(504) 925-3763

 

New Mexico

Director

Division of Agricultural and Environmental Services

N.M. State Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 3005-3AQ 1

N.M. State University

Las Cruces, NM 88003

(505) 545-2133

 

Oklahoma

Chief

Pest Management Section

Plant Industry Division

Oklahoma State Dept. of Agriculture

2800 N. Lincoln Blvd.

Oklahoma City, OK 73105

(405) 521-3864

 

Texas

Director

Division of Agricultural and Environmental Sciences

Texas Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 12847

Austin, TX 78711

(512) 463-7534

 

 

Region 7

 

 

Iowa

Supervisor

Pesticide Control Bureau Section

Iowa Dept. of Agriculture

Henry A. Wallace Building

E. 9th St. & Grand Ave.

Des Moines, IA 50319

(515) 281-8591

 

Kansas

Director

Plant Health Division

Kansas State Board of Agriculture

109 S.W. 9th Street

Topeka, KS 66612

(913) 296-2263

 

Missouri

Supervisor

Bureau of Pesticide Control

Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 630

Jefferson City, MO 65102

(314) 751-2462

 

Nebraska

Director

Bureau of Plant Industry

Nebraska Dept. of Agriculture

301 Centennial Mall South

Lincoln, NE 68509

(402) 471-2341

 

 

Region 8

 

 

Colorado

Chief,

Pesticide Applicator Section

Division of Plant Industry

Colorado Department of Agriculture

700 Kipling Street Ste 4000

Lakewood, CO 80215-5894

(303) 866-2838

 

Montana

Administrator

Environmental Management Division

Montana Dept. of Agriculture

Agriculture-Livestock Building

Rm. 317 Capitol Station

6th & Roberts

Helena, MT 59620-0205

(406) 444-2944

 

North Dakota

Director

Pesticide/Noxious Weed Division

N.D. Dept. of Agriculture

600 East Boulevard, 6th Floor

Bismarck, ND 58505-0020

(701) 224-4756

 

South Dakota

Director

Division of Regulatory Services

S.D. Dept. of Agriculture

Anderson Bldg.,

445 East Capitol

Pierre, SD 57501

(605) 773-3724

 

Utah

Director

Division of Plant Industries

Utah Dept. of Agriculture

350 North Redwood Road

Salt Lake City, UT 84116

(801) 538-7123

 

Wyoming

Manager

Pesticide Division

Wyoming Dept. of Agriculture

2219 Carey Avenue

Cheyenne, WY 82002-0100

(307) 777-6590

 

 

Region 9

 

 

Arizona

Director

Agricultural Chemical & Environmental Services Division

AZ Commission of Agriculture and Horticulture

1688 West Adam's, Suite 103

Phoenix, AZ 85007

(602) 542-4373

 

State Chemist

Office of the State Chemist

P.O. Box 1586

Mesa, AZ 85211

(602) 833-5442

 

Executive Director

Structural Pest Control Commission

1150 S. Priest, Suite 4

Tempe, AZ 85281

(602) 255-3664

 

California

California Department of Pesticide Regulation

1220 "N" Street

Sacramento, CA 98514

(916) 322-6315

 

Hawaii

Director

Division of Plant Industry

Hawaii Dept. of Agriculture

1428 South King Street

Honolulu, HI 96814-2512

(808) 548-7119

 

Nevada

Director

Division of Plant Industry

Nevada Dept. of Agriculture

350 Capitol Hill Avenue

P.O. Box 11100

Reno, NV 89510-1100

(702) 688-1180

 

Guam

Pesticide Enforcement Officer Guam

Environmental Protection Agency

130 Rojas Street

Harmon, GU 96910

 

American Samoa

Director

Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 366

Pago Pago, American Samoa 96799

 

Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands

Executive Officer

Trust Territory

Environmental Protection Board

Office of the High Commissioner

Trust Territory of the Pacific Islands

Saipan, Mariana Islands 96950

 

Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands

Environmental Engineer

Division of Environmental Quality

Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI)

Dr. Torres Hospital

Saipan, Mariana Island 96950

 

 

Region 10

 

 

Idaho

Chief

Bureau of Pesticides

Idaho Dept. of Agriculture

P.O. Box 790

Boise, ID 83701

(208) 334-3243

 

Oregon

Assistant Chief

Plant Division

Oregon Dept. of Agriculture

635 Capitol Street, N.E.

Salem, OR 97310-0110

(503) 378-3776

 

Washington

Assistant Director,

Pesticide Management Division

Washington Department of Agriculture

406 General Administration Building (AX-41)

Olympia, WA 98504

(206) 753-5062

 

Alaska

Director

Division of Environmental Health

Alaska Dept. of Environmental Conservation

P.O. Box "O"

Juneau, AK 99811-1800

(907) 465-2609

 

Pesticide Program Supervisor and Pesticide Specialist

500 South Alaska Street, Suite A

Juneau, AK 99645

(907) 465-2696