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Phone #615-776-2951

Our beaded fringe trims are 1st quality and exceptional in craftsmanship and detail.

by Sandra Kiss-London
You can visit Sandra Kiss-London's web site at www.fauxlikeapro.com

TOOLS

(2) large sea sponges, paper plates for off loading paint, (1) bucket of water, (3) Containers to hold paint, painter's tape, (1) paint roller, (1) ² inch nap roller, (1) roller tray,(1) 2-3 in. latex cutting brush, (3) 2-3 in. chip brushes, (1) stippling or stainer's brush, (1) badger softening brush or any soft brush, (1) turkey feather (1) thin artists brush, latex gloves, clean rags for wiping mistakes

PAINTS

Pratt & Lambert

Base Coat: Sesame #2129, 1-2 Gallons (Satin Latex)

Glaze A: Red River #1902, 1 Quart (Eggshell Latex)

Glaze B: Raffia Tan #2096, 1 Quart (Eggshell Latex)

Glaze C: Sequoia #2007, 1 Quart (Eggshell Latex)

Glazing Liquid: 1 Gallon Acrylic

Varnish - 1 quart of Varathane Diamond Finish (Satin or Gloss)

MIXING IT ALL UP

Glaze A (ratio: 3 parts water, 2 parts acrylic glaze, 1 part latex paint

Glaze B (ratio: 3 parts water, 2 parts acrylic glaze, 1 part latex paint

Glaze C (ratio: 3 parts water, 2 parts acrylic glaze, 1 part latex paint

PREPARATION

Before painting, make sure your surface is in good condition and free of holes or large cracks. If you are doing an old table make sure it is first sanded and primed. base color (Sesame) into roller tray. Evenly apply paint to surface with roller. You may need two coats depending on coverage. Allow to dry 2-3 hours.

Technique

"Step 1: Brush on (glaze A) in a diagonal fashion creating a serpentine pattern. Space them out leaving portions of base coat showing through. You are trying to create your first layer of drifts. Most drifts within any marble run diagonally. Work in areas of 3 sq. ft. at a time.

Step 2: Brush on (glaze B) using the same technique as step 1. Now you will fill in all spaces so that there is no base coat showing. You may also like to slightly overlap your drifts. This will create a third color when its time to blend.

Step 3: Dip sponge in water and wring out. (You want your sponge damp but not dripping with water). Pat sponge lightly against surface softening and blending the colors. The idea of this step is to remove some of the glaze with the dampened sponge. Work your surface until you have achieved a soft mottled effect.

Step 4: Dab the entire surface evenly with a stippling brush. Touch surface lightly and quickly in a bouncing motion working the two colors into one another. Work from your wrist (not arm) moving right to left to vary imprints.

Step 5: Dip prickly side of sponge into (glaze C) and off load excess paint onto paper plate. Lightly sponge on (glaze C) onto your surface in random areas that you want to intensify. Since (glaze C) is your darkest color you don't want to sponge it on too heavy. The idea is to create a subtle depth which is necessary in faux marble.

Step 6: Use a softening brush to blend (glaze C) into the surface. This is done by holding the brush with a loose wrist and sweeping the glaze on right angels until surface becomes cloudy. You can also soften your surface by creating figure eight patterns with your brush.

Step 7: You are now ready to start adding your veins. Dip the end of a turkey feather into (glaze B). Off load excess paint onto paper plate. Hold feather loosely, dragging in a diagonal line shaping the drifts. Remember realistic veins are large and thin and of varied lengths. You can gently blend some of your veins (see step 6) if you feel they are too harsh.

Step 8: Using a thin artists brush you may add additional white veins. This can be done by dipping the brush into base coat (sesame) and repeating step 7. When you are satisfied with the faux marble, leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Seal the whole surface with two coats of high gloss varnish (Varathane Diamond Finish) for protection and sheen.


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